Rediscovering Elegance: Joseph's Artistic Vision Takes Center Stage
The Brand's Decade-Long Transformation: A Journey of Strategic Reinvigoration
This show represented Joseph's grand reentry into the runway scene after an absence spanning almost ten years, with the last presentation occurring in September 2017. The brand, initially conceived by Joseph Ettedgui in London, has faced considerable challenges since its formative years in the 1970s and '80s. However, it has been undergoing a quiet yet determined revitalization. Barbara Campos, appointed CEO in 2018, initiated a comprehensive restructuring plan, which included discontinuing the menswear division and withdrawing from the U.S. market. These strategic decisions led to the company reporting its first profit under her tenure in 2022. Further bolstering its new direction, Joseph welcomed Mario Arena as its creative director in 2024, signaling a fresh artistic chapter.
Creative Director's Debut: Sculptural Inspirations Meet Fluid Designs
For his inaugural runway collection at Joseph, Mario Arena drew profound inspiration from the world of sculpture. He articulated his vision, stating, "I found inspiration in the skill of sculpture by creating softness and lightness in mediums that are flat, and re-envisioned them into effortless pieces with structural shapes, deep folds, and movement." This artistic approach is evident throughout the collection, which masterfully balances defined forms with ethereal flows.
Collection Highlights: A Symphony of Structure and Softness
While the collection featured several distinct structural pieces, such as a belted cape dress and a cashmere ensemble adorned with 3D printed metal quills, the overarching theme gravitated towards fluid and lightweight silhouettes. Key elements included sweeping wide-leg trouser suits crafted from satin twill, ankle-length maxi skirts in denim, and luxurious gray silk and gold lamé pieces, thoughtfully paired with form-fitting knitwear. Python prints subtly embellished alpaca shawls, complementing a diverse range of footwear. Among the standout creations were the cashmere culottes trouser suits, which achieved a cohesive look when styled with woven leather knee-high boots or elegant short-heeled python pumps. However, the inclusion of transparent tops felt less integral to the collection's overall narrative.